True Made Foods Vegetable Ketchup, No Added Sugar, 17 oz

This is a ketchup built on a different sweetener. Where the standard bottle leans on corn syrup or cane sugar, True Made Foods draws its sweetness from pureed butternut squash, carrot and apple cooked down with the tomato. Vegetable ketchup on the label is a description of the recipe rather than a flourish.

It reads as ketchup, tomato-forward and tangy, but the middle is rounder and more savory, and the vinegar sits further forward than it does in the mainstream brands. The texture is a shade thicker and more pulpy, and the color runs darker, closer to brick than to bright red.

It goes wherever ketchup goes, on fries, burgers, eggs and meatloaf, and the savory edge makes it useful stirred into a barbecue sauce, worked into meatball or meatloaf mixes, or spooned into a pan of braised beans.